Spiltwine

So, Burgundy yeah, the place that all oenophiles supposedly retire to, the region that makes all others sub-standard, Le Montrachet, DRC, some of the finest and most sought after wine in the world and what else?  Well do you know about Les Gougères?

I can hear you now.  Les Gougères?  Is it a small region within the Côte de Nuits?  Perhaps an unknown village making amazing wines? Or even a super-tiny, quarter of hectare, pre-phylloxera vineyard producing two barrels of super premium Chardonnay?
Non, non et non.

In fact, les gougères are a local snack of sorts.  They are a quite simple really, choux pastry with Gruyère cheese.
I’m writing about them because during my travels through the regions of Burgundy I have tasted nearly as many of these little bite-sized savoury pastries as 1er cru from the Chalonnais.  And there is almost as much diversity.

Posh Gougères - were they the best?

From modern styles, to microwaved versions that were just all wrong, I actually couldn’t get enough.  And who was the best,was it the Michelin starred chef?  The artisan patisserie?  In fact, the best gougères I’ve tried were made by grandmère Bernadette – mother and grandmother of the St Aubin producer Roux Père & Fils.

Quite possibly the best gougères in Burgundy

Dog Tooth White

Les Murgers des Dents de Chiens

In St Aubin, Les Murgers des Dents de Chiens is making some very affordable alternatives to its neighbour Puligny Montrachet.  I tried two this week both different and individual.
The first a 2008 from Dom. Roux Père & Fils showed soft hints of apple with a nice rounded, well balanced palate.  The finish had structured minerality that freshened the wine up.  It’s obviously still young but drinkable available through Bibendum (not sure of price but around the €20 retail and available at Bibendum).

The second is from Dom. Bachelet (I actually tried four different vintages here).  One of the most notable is the 2005. It smelt of unsalted cashews mixed with dried citrus and apple, lots of spices too. A very complex wine that has another 10 years to reach its peak. (Sorry don’t know price of this one but it’s available at Berry Bros)

More to come on Burgundy.