Filed under Burgundy

Neither of us were getting any younger

I actually left this bottle at my parents’ some five years ago.

So, as I scavenged their fridge this evening and found the guy squeezed behind a six-pack of Pacifico, was completely surprised, elated, and slightly disappointed that they hadn’t opened it yet.

1990 Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne (Grand Cru - as if I needed to say)

It was on the turn when I left it chez eux those few years back…so was forced to do the correct thing and open it up tout de suite!

Well I must say, there is a reason why Grand Crus are classified as such…despite the age (and maderization) this wine was showing lots and lots of fruit, mostly of the big pip variety, the likes of apricots and peaches…also some honeycomb and a nice creamy hint of oak. The palate was slightly sweet too.

All this and it’s a twenty year old half bottle!

Just for good measure I cracked open Michael Broadbent’s Vintage Wine (if you don’t have a copy, you must get one now) to compare tasting notes…and glad to see a likeness in our perception.

Michael Broadbent's 1990 White Burgundy entry from Vintage Wine (2002, pg 289)

Regardless of what either of us said this wine was very much an amazing treat…

Tagged , , , , , , , ,

a miscellaneous compilation – but all about wine

Bottles made from other dead bottles, arrghhh.

I only had a quick ten minutes in the Wines of South Africa tasting a few weeks back, but ten minutes was long enough to see these bottles below; a range of wines from the collaborative efforts of winemaker Charles Back and fashion designer Mark Eisen, donning the catchy name of Back & Eisen.  In wine I am not usually sucked in by marketing, and in pretty much all cases believe that the wine itself should stand out.  At first glance here, I walked right past thinking it was a wrap around stick-on label…and who’s gonna be impressed with that?

Back & Eisen Bottles

There is a huge chemical equation that creates those designs.

It wasn’t until I held the bottle and realised not only are these graphics etched on but for the first time with wine I couldn’t care less what was in the bottle, because the bottle itself was so cool.

Lucky enough once trying the wine, I found out all was not lost, the wines are easily drinkable, but meant for mass appeal (as too are the bottles, I imagine). Admittedly, I only liked the Shiraz/Mourvédre blend (dark berry fruit/smooth, slightly oaked palate/semi-lengthy finish).  And while tasting, my geeky gadget side (which rarely rears its head at trade-tastings) took over, I was obsessed with the design and how it all worked…

IMG_0488

iphone photo

So, I found out that the process is kind of complicated, excuse me for a second whilst I don my lab coat and safety specs to explain…

First it’s a 360° design…that means the graphic has no ending edge and has to be perfect and continuous the whole way round (if this doesn’t make sense…ask me later).  That continuous flowing design, I’m told, is difficult to do.
Second, the graphic itself is a mix of ink + powdered fine glass + inky wax base.  The bottles are made from some recycled glass so all those greenies out there can be happy :-0 yay! Oh and the bottles themselves are 100% recyclable

Finally, when put under extremely high temperatures the three ingredients from step two fuse themselves to the bottle surface…and presto you get Dino DNA. Okay maybe not but you are left with what Back & Eisen are hoping is a souvenir bottle.

They are going mid-range with the price though and expect to see these hitting the shelves at the £10 mark (I hear Liberty Wines are going to import them).  Oh and I must thank Mark Eisen for the design procedure.

Mischief and Mayhem

The headline says it all; M&M are a fairly new Burgundian negociant based in Aloxe Corton (they are not related to the multi-coloured, sugar-coated chocolate of the same name, blues the best btw).
While I was down there a month ago one of my sommelier buddies suggested I should check them out…so lucky enough I found them!

L1060645

The mischievous Michael Ragg is only one of the M's

But unlike most French tasting rooms, which usually need an appointment, or a knock at some Napoleonic sized door (I mean big door from Napoleonic times, not small door because Napoleon was short), that never gets answered, M&M has an open door policy.  It’s quite an inviting place too.  In fact, it’s pretty hard to miss in the relatively small village of Aloxe Corton.

I tried a few of the range and sadly my tasting notes are boxed up at the moment (I’m moving…hate moving).  What I do remember is that on a whole these wines are very approachable and competitively priced, the generic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were particularly nice and will cost about £12-£15.  Some of the Mischief and Mayhem wines are available here at Armit Wines

EWBC

ewbc1

Finally, I’m of to the European Wine Bloggers Conference this weekend and will try and give you an update on what’s going on there! I really hope it’s worth the investment and it sounds like it’ll be great fun!

Tagged , , , , , , , , , ,

Lost in Latour

Had a quick visit to Latour’s winery in Aloxe Corton, breaking away from the tour I had a peak around the underground maze of a wine cellar.


more about “Lost in Latour“, posted with vodpod

It really was that dark! Had to take pictures with a super long exposure too.

This room was kept hidden from those nasty Nazi's. It holds the oldest wine in the cellar.

This room was kept hidden from the Nazis during WWII. It was the size of large closet and boarded up from view. It holds the oldest wine in the cellar, some (of which there were few bottles) dated back to the 1860's.

Furry cellar walls. Actually it was really sticky and I had that stuff stuck on my fingre for ages!

Furry cellar walls. Actually it was really sticky and I had that stuff stuck on my finger for ages!

After the tour we had a massive tasting of Latour’s regions méconnues, basically the lesser known regions of Burgundy.
One of my favourites was Maranges, a pinot from the most southern tip of the Cotes de Beaune.  It was very fragrant with some licorice and violets, medium body with some more of that licorice but also some spice and berries and a pleasant lingering finish.  I just called up Latour UK and sadly the wine is unavailable here but have a look out for it in France.

Latour's Maranges

Later this week I’ll finish up my on my  Burgundy trip and should have a couple of videos up from tastings past.  Ciao.

Tagged , , , , , , ,

Travels with my palate

So, Burgundy yeah, the place that all oenophiles supposedly retire to, the region that makes all others sub-standard, Le Montrachet, DRC, some of the finest and most sought after wine in the world and what else?  Well do you know about Les Gougères?

I can hear you now.  Les Gougères?  Is it a small region within the Côte de Nuits?  Perhaps an unknown village making amazing wines? Or even a super-tiny, quarter of hectare, pre-phylloxera vineyard producing two barrels of super premium Chardonnay?
Non, non et non.

cle

In fact, les gougères are a local snack of sorts.  They are a quite simple really, choux pastry with Gruyère cheese.
I’m writing about them because during my travels through the regions of Burgundy I have tasted nearly as many of these little bite-sized savoury pastries as 1er cru from the Chalonnais.  And there is almost as much diversity.

Posh Gougères - where they the best?

Posh Gougères - were they the best?

From modern styles, to microwaved versions that were just all wrong, I actually couldn’t get enough.  And who was the best,was it the Michelin starred chef?  The artisan patisserie?  In fact, the best gougères I’ve tried were made by grandmère Bernadette – mother and grandmother of the St Aubin producer Roux Père & Fils.

Quite possibly the best gougères in Burgundy

Quite possibly the best gougères in Burgundy

Dog Tooth White

Les Murgers des Dents de Chiens

Les Murgers des Dents de Chiens

In St Aubin, Les Murgers des Dents de Chiens is making some very affordable alternatives to its neighbour Puligny Montrachet.  I tried two this week both different and individual.
The first a 2008 from Dom. Roux Père & Fils showed soft hints of apple with a nice rounded, well balanced palate.  The finish had structured minerality that freshened the wine up.  It’s obviously still young but drinkable available through Bibendum (not sure of price but around the €20 retail and available at Bibendum).

roux dog tooth
The second is from Dom. Bachelet (I actually tried four different vintages here).  One of the most notable is the 2005. It smelt of unsalted cashews mixed with dried citrus and apple, lots of spices too. A very complex wine that has another 10 years to reach its peak. (Sorry don’t know price of this one but it’s available at Berry Bros)

dog tooth bachelet

More to come on Burgundy.

Tagged

Planet Burgundy

Just a quick pictorial update as I am in Burgundy and paying for my internet time by the minute?!?! I guess we are spoiled with the plenty of free wi-fi zones in London.

Tres busy en Dijon

Trés busy en Dijon

So arrived in Dijon and headed straight to the Le Pré aux Clercs for lunch.

I tried the foie gras mousse with pea velouté.  It was amazingly light, not heavy at all and quite the opposite of any foie gras dish I’ve had before…almost elegant.

foie gras s'il vous plait

foie gras, s'il vous plait

Went to a few different producers in the Côte de Nuits and was most impressed by Domain Jean Fournier in Marsannay (available in the UK from the Burgundy experts Flint Wines).  Laurent is the son who makes the wine these days (Jean is his semi-retired pops).

Laurent Fournier

Laurent Fournier holding a stone

He makes an interesting white called St Urban, a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Blanc.  It has a hint of honey on the nose backed by loads of minerality (in fact all his whites have an impressive amount of pure minerality). The palate is nicely rounded with lovely freshness of apples.  The finish leaves a tingling effect, almost like powdered sherbert.

Fournier’s most impressive (and most expensive) wine was the 2006 Trois Terres.  This, mostly, Pinot Noir (it’s blended with 5% of Pinot Beuro) has tons of character; on the nose it has the concentration of cherry jam without the alcohol heat,  it ‘s very rich and intense with a subtle minerality on the finish.  Not sure of the price in UK but it retails in France for €25. Pricey but worth a go.

Trois Terres

Trois Terres

Well, that’s it for now…santé

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 1,438 other followers