Filed under Santa Barbara

A Pinot that blew me away….now that rarely happens

Just a quick note to bring your attention to Evening Land Vineyards (ELV), a fairly large operation with wineries in Burgundy, Oregon and also here in the Santa Rita Hills – they specialize in Pinot Noir and make some Chardonnay as well.

Evening Land Vineyard

Evening Land Vineyard

Their tasting room will be opening in a little over a month’s time, on March 4th, in the Wine Ghetto…more information to follow on this as I am sure it will be a great event.

sashi moorman

Sashi Moorman the head winemaker at ELV in California.

In the meantime below, is a tasting note of my favorite of their local Pinots. The grapes are sourced from a beautifully tended vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills AVA, called Tempest. Take note of this name, as the names of Burgundy vineyards are remembered and each vintage chronicled, I believe one day too wine drinkers will look back upon the different vintages of the Tempest, comparing intricate differences between the years.

2009 Evening Land Vineyard, Tempest, Pinot Noir -
Dense, concentrated cherry fruit on the nose. Perfumed scents
of violets and rose petals. Minerality too in the form of pencil
shavings. Palate is well balanced with crunchy cranberry flavors.
Long lasting refreshing finish.

$60, online at ELV store, also a lot of ELV’s wines are available
at the Winehound at various price points

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The Martians have Landed! Don’t worry I was not probed.

 

Why is it that there are never martian sightings in the large metropolis of the world, rather UFO’s seem to prefer the nice grassy fields of Kansas or Oklahoma? If this is in fact true, and E.T.’s do like farm fields and the like, you won’t be surpised to hear martians have landed in the fairly rural industrial estate of Santa Maria…and I spent my last weekend with their leader!

Luckily enough the only probing that went on was from a wine thief…….into barrels (you sickos)

Martians!!!

Martians!!! AHHHHHH!

Mike Roth, is the new winemaker at Martian Ranch and Vineyard’s  and we spent the morning tasting through the trials and tribulations of the year.

Mike and I actually met randomly when he was making wine at Koehler about five years ago, now he is dividing his winemaking duties between Demetria and Martian.

Although she wasn’t there this past weekend I’ve also met Nan Helgeland, the owner of Martian, as well. She or rather the brand is an easy one to remember as the labels are a lovely bright orange. Nan even had the foresight of making some orange branded spit cups, I thought I had one laying about here somewhere but sods laws…when you need it, it ain’t there!

By the way the name Martian doesn’t come from any sort of extra terrestial beliefs from Nan (none that are publicly known) but rather a conglomeration of her two kids names: Martin and Ian. She does allude to Martians on the label though and has a little doodle of a space invader on some of the labels.

Mike Roth and Martian's beehives

Mike Roth and Martian's beehive landing pods

The vineyards, located in Los Alamos, are on their third year of biodynamic transformation, they will be official next year sometime. As for the wine….well Mike is somewhat different in his approach but that’s in a good way.

He has taken on the whole low interference/low alcohol way of thinking (most of what I tasted was around 13% mark) and is very interested in the natural side of winemaking.

I am not going to go into much detail defining natural wine here, as it is interpreted differently, but for Mike he uses very little, to no sulphur in his wines.

Here’s a little tidbit on Mike’s philosophy….try not to get brain washed.

As for the wines, my favorites were the Grenache and Syrah. The Grenache was fragrant, light and delicate. Rather nice and made completely naturally. The rosé especially had a beautiful soft pink hue and a lovely fresh nose of berry fruits.

The Syrahs too were impressive. Martian has a couple of different clones, 99 and one from Alban…99 had a distinct olive tapenade, more dense/heady aromas while the Alban (they called it that, I don’t think it’s the official name) is more aromatic, with perfumed berry aromas. Individually the two were impressive. They will most likely end up in a blend though and I found they would complement each other immensely.

I forgot to also mention all the wines are estate grown and Martian has some interesting grapes planted, there is an Albariño, Grenache Blanc and some Tempranillo…

For me though the stands out were definitely the Rhône reds.  Look out for this winery…their labels are easily spotted on the shelf, like some sort of homing device. Most importantly though, you’ll be impressed with what’s inside.

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It’s only Rock ‘n’ Rhone but I like it…

Apparently the secret to perfect Michelin starred restaurant mash potatoes is equal parts potato to butter and that’s the formula I followed last night.

But mash is not what this blog post is about (nor the roast chicken that accompanied it)…the back of Barrel 27‘s bottle says “Each bottle of this wine represents a dream realized by three friends.”  I first came across this winery about five years ago, they must have just started.  Some friends of mine (Cielo & Erin) had gone to university with them up in SLO and kindly gave me a bottle.  I packed it back to London and opened it with some sommelier people…and remember we all enjoyed it.

So, upon my permanent return Stateside I was very pleased to see Barrel 27 at my local bottle shop (The Winehound) …and last night decided their Grenache would go well with my 3 pounds of butter added mash. (It did!)

2008 Barrel 27 'Rock and a Hard Place' Grenache

2008 Barrel 27 'Rock and a Hard Place' Grenache

Here’s a tasting note:
2008 Barrel 27 Santa Barbara County
Rock and a Hard Place
Grenache, 15.6%

Crisp and juicy with the ripest of berries.
A little bit of sherbert too.
An easy drinker, the wine quenches your taste buds.
After a little bit of time the wine changed completely.
Dark licorice and a more broody character all together.

(tried the last dredge the next morning, still really bright and crisp…decided to add two years to ageability, due to the crisp acidity.)

BTW very well balanced at 15.6%…

Drink now until 2016 — I paid $17.99

A very enjoyable wine indeed, most especially at that price point, very happy with the purchase and will buy it again.

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Wine to rough it with

Destination Sequoia.

As excited as I was to see the land of the tree giants I was equally as excited to to try a couple of wines I’d been holding on to…

Tin Barn Vineyards, a winery up in Sonoma, was kind enough to send me a bottle of their 2006 Coryelle Fields Vineyard Syrah.  The grapes are sourced from a vineyard near Jenner - I have yet to go there but from what I hear the vineyard is up a dirt track and planted on a fairly element exposed spot. Sounds great to me!

Tin Barn Syrah 2006 Coryelle Fields Vineyard

Tin Barn Syrah 2006 Coryelle Fields Vineyard

As for the Syrah the nose is full of dark berry fruit and spice but where this wine excels is its take on earthy Rhône.  We’re not talking dank Gigondas here, but for something out of California there is a lot of earthiness, soil even, and plenty of smokey savoury bacon, flavors.  Basically, a perfect wine for sitting around a campfire.

Tin Barn Syrah is available at the winery for $25 or you can go order it off their site

Giant Sequoia

Giant Sequoia

Mini Clubman in a Sequoia
Mini Clubman in a Sequoia
Another wine that made the trek northward was a very fine bottle of 2007 Rey Syrah.  Rey is the second label of the garagiste duo Chris and Deanna King.  They make their wine up in Lompoc under their main nomenclature De Su Propia Cosecha.
2007 Rey Syrah - Great with steak

2007 Rey Syrah - Great with steak

Rey has mostly Syrah in it but there’s a bit of Grenache and even less Cab.  Immediately on the nose you get hit of fresh bluberries as well as fresh aniseed and licorice.  The palate is crunchy with just enough tannin to roughin’ up your inner cheek.  This wine is very nice and very affordable at only $19.

2007 Rey Syrah

2007 Rey Syrah

If you live in SB I believe Winehound carries it, if not they can probably get it for you. It’s worth a note too that DSP has just been awarded 92 points for both their Grenache blend and Roussanne…worthy of a look.

A meadow near "End of the Road" in the Kings Canyon

A meadow near "End of the Road" in the Kings Canyon

As for Sequioa, even with spending a week there, we only touched the surface as it were.  We will definitely be going back again soon.

Adieu for now.

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Crisp white is the only way.

In regards to white wine, I like them cold, I like them to be white, but most importantly I like my whites to be CRISP!

There was a time that I could enjoy a non-acid-searing white wine, but those days have long gone…

This disdain, avoidance, dislike, of whites, mostly of the Southern French variety, didn’t come to me in the middle of the night as a message from God but rather was a sort of pebble in the shoe for a while.  What I blame most is my lengthy time spent in the Languedoc, surrounded by fat whites, no acidity and an overall blah taste in my mouth.

searing acidity

This is why I stir clear of most Rhone white varieties, why I will always drink dry Riesling, certain Grüners, some Chardonnays, and most if not all Colombards from SW France.

I like crisp!

Recently, when I was generously handed a bottle of Vionier from Sashi Moorman, I was of course skeptical, would this bottle from Lompoc be the saving grace?

I first met Sashi about eight years ago. I was a pretentious, know-it-all, sommelier, visiting from the UK;  Sashi was a young ambitious winemaker, gaining respect in the Santa Ynez Valley.  Much has changed since then…now, Sashi’s main job (he’s got like twelve) is head guy at Evening Land Vineyards.  He also owns his own label Piedrasassi and the second label from that New Vineland.
Myself, I am no longer a sommelier.

2008 New Vineland Viognier matched great with Trader Joe's goodies.

2008 New Vineland Viognier matched great with Trader Joe's goodies.

I mentally committed to try the wine, so I thought why not put it through a small test of matching to culinary delights! I went to the local Commerçant Joe and purchased a variety of cheeses and cured things.  I only mention this because there is  a cheese there that you must try…it’s called Delice de Bourgogne Double Cream (I think it was $6-8)…well I could have had that cheese and this wine all night long!! Suffice to say the wine was very impressive and stood up to the pairings.  The cheese has been locked away to save my waist line.

Don’t forget white and cheese is sometimes better than red.

As for the wine, here’s the note:

2008 New Vineland Viognier, Santa Barbara County, $22.00

On the nose was lots of citrus, especially tangerine and peach.
The palate I particularly enjoyed, there was quite a lot of quenching fruit, but also fresh almonds and best of all distinct minerality -  like a freshly cut slab of wet granite…loved it!

As Viogniers go, I actually did enjoy this guy.

Piedrasassi’s tasting room is located within the Wine Ghetto in Lompoc. Sashi’s wife Melissa can usually be found there.

They are open from Noon-5pm Friday to Sunday
And you can call them for an appointment on other days

1501 E. Chestnut Ave.
Lompoc, CA
805-736-6784

www.newvineland.com

@newvineland

Oh and a little tidbit for you… New Vineland was going to be the name of Lompoc but for some reason Lompoc (which is Chumash for stagnant waters or lagoon) was already chosen.

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Lindquist – The Next Generation

Had a quick dash in my local wine shop The Winehound the other day looking for a bottle I had heard about.

Apparently, the famous Bob Lindquist of Qupé fame has a son who makes Rhônes too!

I later found out Ethan has been making wine for a while now, and I must say the current vintage available of Ethan Santa Barbara County, Syrah 2008, did not disappoint.

In fact it was (as we finished it that night) a very smooth drinking bevy indeed.  On the nose was a blend of peppery spices, hints of wild thyme and blackberry jam while the palate was very juicy with boysenberry and some tannin grip.  Think a bunch of crushed berries wrapped in suede.

Ethan Santa Barbara County Syrah 2008

I forgot the exact price but think it’s in the $21 range…and I would wholeheartedly suggest going out and finding some.

Also, poker fans Ethan and his brother have gone “all in” with another project of high-end Rhônes called No Limits Wine.
I believe they are only days/weeks from launching www.nolimitwine.com

So, ante up if you’re interested and let’s hope they aren’t bluffing.

You can also find Ethan wines at the Qupé tasting room in Los Olivos, 2963 Grand Avenue.

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A Tale of Two Foxens

It was the best of wines, it was nowhere near the worst of wines.

As I set out on my first trip to the Santa Ynez Valley, since moving back, my sites were set on Foxen, always a favourite of mine.- www.foxenvineyard.com

I hadn’t been there for a good 12 years and the last time was en route to Hollister Ranch, with a dinghy strapped to the roof of a truck.  For surfers, we were definitely high brow with our beverages.

Jump to 2010 and the Foxen shack is still standing.  A small cabin quite literally on the side of the road, with an even smaller bar, proves that old California charm might be all that is needed to present your wine.

Look for this sign when heading up Foxen Cyn Rd

The shack, or how it is now marketed, foxen 7200 only carries Bordeaux varietals and one “Super Tuscan” all labelled with this new brand.

At foxen 7200, my favourite was the 2007 Grassini Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon for $36 concentrated berry fruit, some liquorice, and overall medium tannin mouthfeel.

New look

But Bordeaux was not what I came for…the very well known Pinot Noir and Rhone varietals that made the winery famous are being poured at the spick and span new winery and tasting room up the road.

The “new” Foxen is most definitely where the good stuff is being poured.  The tasting room does not come close to the charm of the shack, but pleasant nonetheless and I believe solar powered.  The Burgundy and Rhône varietals are what made this place famous and I was far more satisfied with the range of wines tasted here.

From a vineyard of super high yields

Here are my favs:

The 2007 Rosé of Mourvèdre was a pleasant surprise.  This might actually be the first Mourvèdre Rose I’ve ever tasted…and a welcome relief to the usual safe Syrah.  It’s a dry rose and full of freshly washed red berry flavours, very crisp and refreshing.  Perhaps steep for $25.

The 2008 Mourvèdre from Williamson-Doré Vineyard was very close to being the wine of the day.  In fact, if they sold it in regular sized bottles and my accountant wasn’t tasting with me, I would have bought the guy.  Great concentration on the nose, lots of blackberry aromas and a very smooth palate.  Well worth the$80 asked and only available in magnum.  Highly recommended

The 2008 Syrah from Tinaquaic Vineyard was far and beyond my favourite wine of all.  Full of lovely chocolate aromas and again some fresh berries, this impressed at first sniff.  The palate too was soft and velvety with hints of spice and boysenberries, $46 and a happy purchase.

The best of times.

I must applaud Foxen for the marketing savvy here.  If you haven’t been to Foxen for a while, you will have no idea of the new winery…and just head straight to the shack.  If you feel curious to taste the other wines, they are only 2 minutes away.

To encourage tasting at both, Foxen has a deal where you can pay $12 and try three wines at each tasting room.  Otherwise it’s $10 at each for five wines.

Foxen Winery & Vineyard
7600 Foxen Canyon Road
Santa Maria, CA 93454
Phone: (805) 937-4251
FAX: (805) 937-0415
Email: info@foxenvineyard.com

foxen 7200
7200 Foxen Canyon Road
Santa Maria, CA 93454
Phone: (805) 937-4251

 

 

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