When you are starting out in the wine world they are an amazing resource.  For instance, when I first moved to the UK I had a part-time job at Sainsbury’s, stocking the wine shelves no less.  At all times I kept Hugh Johnson’s little pocket book in my pocket, this of course led to countless old ‘are you happy to see me?’ lines but in all seriousness I was forever referring to it in a bid to not stock the shelves. In short, it was a useful way to relate myself with wines that make up that  great wall of wine available in our supermarkets.

Robert Parker’s Great Value Wines isn’t much different to the other listing wine books, except that no wine is more than £20. Robert Parker, btw, is the best known wine critic in the States and considered one of the most influential people in the wine world.  And it’s unfair to say that Robert Parker himself chose all these wines because of the 22 chapters he only does two, the rest are compiled by his tasting team.

One of the team who I pay particular attention to is David Schildknecht. Firstly, because he covers my favourite region the Languedoc, secondly because his notes are some of the most concise and detailed I have come across and lastly because of passages like below:

Furthermore, Roussillon is arguably the most exciting – perhaps last –
wine-growing frontier of France, now overrun by new-comers from
all over France and abroad, lured by the smell of vinous black gold.

Some may argue that he is a bit too wordy… whatever, I find his writing to be some of the most interesting in the wine world.

As lists books go this is a very complete collection of wines. However, the overwhelming problem with the book is that a very great number of the great value wines are not available in the UK, so we are immediately losing the saving in shipping costs!

I can’t help but think the book was written for the American market and in post-editing all dollar signs were replaced with pound sterling.

One of the highlights of the books is the in depth analysis before each region by the Parker taster who specialises in that region.  However, there are dramatic inconsistencies with each one.  The wordy Schildknecht gives the reader lots to pour over as does Antonio Galloni and Neal Martin (although where Neal Martin actually list sub-regions Schildknecht integrates the sub-regions into the text). Dr. Jay Miller on the other hand and even worse Robert Parker himself are very limited in what they say in their chapters.  Parker reviews Bordeaux and California each only receiving an intro of one page, yet the two regions are some of the bigger chapters in the book…

Despite this, there is a great section in each country’s introduction called drinking curves, a quick synopsis of the ageability, in a very general sense, of the region’s wines… however for some reason not every country has one.

There was a great opportunity in this book to take over where the now no longer printed Wine Report left off. Although I would never imagine this book to be as in depth as the Wine Report it could have had a very good stab at giving the reader a detailed look at what’s happening in each region.

Lastly, anytime I see a listing wine book I instinctively search for the winery I spent most of my time working at, that is Domaine La Sauvageonne, in the Terasses du Larzac, deep within the Coteaux du Languedoc. And I can happily say that it is not only listed but two wines are included – you can find Les Ruffes and Pica Broca both at everywine.com

Great Value Wines is good idea and areas of the book are interesting but with the lack of UK suppliers and the inconsistencies chapter to chapter, overall this wine list book sadly seems incomplete.

The folks at DK kindly sent me the book to review.

Domaine de la Graveirette, Mus ‘T’ 2007

It’s just something about tomato sauce (and cooked cherry tomatoes too) that go so well with Southern Rhône Syrah/Grenache blends. The ox cheek is just a plus.
Actually, this wine could go with an array of tomato and meat based Italian dishes, lasagne or even spag bol for instance.

The wine itself isn’t majorly complex but rather light and easy with fragrant berry fruit, some spice and a smooth palate. And it’s just light enough to make it refreshing in a glass, by itself.

Domaine de la Graveirette is available at Caviste for £8.95

The wine was kindly sent to me by newly established Carte Blanche Wines

Eva's Vineyard 2008 - Chenin Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Királyleányka

Now, I must say at first sip I was a bit let down. What I like so much about the Vieille Fontaine is its freshness and Eva’s Vineyard didn’t pack that punch of acidity…however, after a bit of time I started Hungar-ing for more (apologies)… it had lots of white peach fruit and apricot backed by some citrus too.  It was left in the fridge overnight and the next day again I was pleasantly surprised.

One of my wine tests is to see how long a bottle lasts after being opened…or rather if it is still drinkable day after day.  And I must say this wine has been opened now for nearly four days and is very drinkable still.

Another wine under 4 squid that deserves a bit of accolade…only two so far but there’s got to be more out there!

You can still get a bottle of decent white wine from the South West of France at the shrapnel price of £3.99.

Made from Producteurs Plaimont it is called Vieille Fontaine and available at Tesco Extra.  It’s made in the Gers region of SW France (They are famous in the States for the Colombelle wine).

This guy is a crispy bomb! A completely refreshing tipple. Lots of citrus loveliness mixed in with granny smith apples. The grapes are of the local sort – Colombard and Ugni blanc.

As for my food pairing. Well eggs are a notorious wine killer – usually they only go with bubbly stuff, but Vieille Fontaine went perfectly with the omelette – it’s all about the acidity in the wine cutting through the egginess of the, uhm, well, eggs.
A great pairing at a super budget price.

My bottle of Vielle Fontaine was kindly sent to me by the folks at Westbury (thanks Sandra) but if you would like your own, and I highly suggest you try it out,  they’re at Tesco Extra.

Vielle Fontaine 2008 £3.99 available at Tesco Extra (and online for even cheaper)

Wine-wise umami comes up enough to be noticed. I have found it in some Burgundies (those tarry, bacon fat ones) and a variety of meaty Italian wines.

So the paste, I’ve been using it as quick fix (as in drug fix not mend fix) in some pasta sauces as well as a last minute stock addition. It has also been sneakily squeezed into some other dishes that I wasn’t supposed to touch (i.e. everything that is lovingly made by my roomie).

Taste No.5 Umami Paste

But on one of the cold, winter days of yester week I decided to push the umami paste to its limit…that is by drinking it in a mug as a soup itself!

So started my odyssey in creating cup o’ umami and it began with hot water.  My thought process was, if bovril and miso are umami, surely the umami paste would make a delicious cuppa?

By itself however, wasn’t that good, so I put in some Tabasco…

To no avail.

Then came the marmite…

Nope, didn’t help.

I then added some Asian (maybe Chinese?) stuff, I have no idea what it was but it was in the fridge, had cool Asian writing and a pic of a chilli pepper so deduced it was meant for my mug.

Picante sauce isn't strictly umami but I couldn't find any Keyser Söze to add.

I’ll skip out the part where I held my nose and forced fed myself  à la goose & foie gras style…but let’s just say it ended badly.

I thought stirring with chopsticks would add to the experience, it didn't.

Moral of the story – umami paste ain’t meant for mugs.

Actually, the real moral of the story is to use umami paste sparingly.  Umami has a lot of love to dish out and the slightest of tube squeeze goes a long way.

As mentioned above I add the stuff to my sauces, et cetera however if you would like to make a umamitastic dish I would suggest trying out Sig’s (of Scandilicious fame) canape – Yuzu and shiro miso sea bass ceviche with pickled ginger

She’s a bit of a umami groupie and has been following Umami since the early 80’s.

If you would like to purchase Taste No5 it is available at Selfridge’s for a few quid.

Good luck! And please don’t do like me.

When Terroirs Wine Bar & Restaurant first opened, about a year ago, it created a huge buzz within the wine industry. This was mostly due to its association with Les Caves de Pyrene, the very popular and ever eclectic wine agent.

Les Caves sources and supplies a huge range of natural wines. If you think of biodynamic wines as extreme organic, natural wines are an extreme hyper-biodynamic — max…the natural kind.

There is no governing body for natural wines, but the idea is that they are…well…natural.  Nothing added to them at any point during the winemaking process and sourced most likely from biodynamic vineyards.  The lack of filtering and SO₂ leaves the wine cloudy due the combination of left over yeast bits as well as oxidation.  The wines are very delicate too, in a chemical sense, if they are not already completely oxidised once the cork is pulled, you better drink it quick…because it soon will be.

The wines are very difficult to make and keep. They are by no means a recipe wine and when they are perfect can be some of the most sublime tasting wine you will ever try.  There is very little made, and of that very little is palatable.  I would like to cherish my first memory of tasting a natural up there with other great wine moments – sadly however it will only be remembered as the first time my gag reflex when into overdrive.

So  after all the hype about Terroirs, I thought I should pay the place a visit…and to cut a long story short, it sucked.  Snails were rubbery and the bone marrow slimy. …the wine wasn’t nice and the only saving grace was the lemon posset.  I didn’t like the place and for good reason.  This first experience was over a year ago and despite my lack of pleasure in the place, everyone else seemed to be having GREAT meals there. In chronological order there was Jancis Robinson…top wine writer giving the place thumbs up in November ‘08.  Next was the Independent,  4 out of 5, followed by Matthew Norman with a whopping 9.5 outta 10.

The Telegraph gave the place 5 out of 5…

AA Gill…gave it 3 out of 5

Then in August, my most trusted food journo…Jay Rayner, the guy who I’ve agreed with most loves the place!

Honestly WTF!

I vowed to not go there again…but two Saturday’s ago was a very very cold 1.0 °C night…couldn’t bear the walk from Whitehall to Bar Italia, so I decided to give the place another go…

Perched in the newly-opened, retro fitted basement bar we quickly tucked in to Fine de Claire oysters at £1.50 each.  A fair price and amazingly fresh, as if the had only just been pinched from Neptune’s palm himself.  This was paired with a wonderful sparkling Tribbiano made by Camillo Donati in the region of Emilia Romagna…it was unfiltered and was cloudy…but despite the look the wine was amazing! It had light baked apple aromas and flavours, with some citrus fruits as well.

Fine de Claire Oysters, at Terroirs London

Camillo Donati - 2007 Trebbiano Bianco Secco

Next was the plate of charcuterie…with the triad of Saucisson “Noir de Bigorre”, Duck Rillettes and Pork & Pistachio Terrine, all as rustic as the wooden board they were served on. A generous helping but at £12, one would expect it.

The Tuscan chopped raw steak for £8 was coarsely cut up and melted in the mouth and came close to being my favourite dish (Note-As many of the dishes were in French I was surprised to see this dish listed as raw steak rather than tartar).

Charcuterie and Tuscan Chopped Raw Steak (why not say tartar?)

But the star of the meal was by far the Partridge and Choucroute, individually the bird was gamey and the sauerkraut…well tasted like sauerkraut (with juniper berries).  But together they made a beautiful flavour combination that deserves its own post – titled Partridge and Choucroute: You didn’t know?! It kicks ass!

Partridge and Choucroute (the chef kindly cut it in half for us)

As for desserts there was three of us and each of our desserts were splendid —>>>> Pain Perdu (French Toast) & Caramelised Banana, Bitter Chocolate Pot and Crème Caramel (this one was prob the best).

Bitter Chocolate Pot and Pain Perdu (don't worry it found its way...into our bellies)

Marco de Bartoli - Vecchio Samperi Ventennale

Besides the sparkler I also enjoyed  a wine that can only be described as a digestif.  Marco de Bartoli’s wine (incidently he is considered one of the best producers in Sicily) – Vecchio Samperi Ventennale is auburn in colour and has a splendid aroma of herbs and nuts, dried fruits and graceful palate with enough acidity to not make it cloying. It is made with the Grillo grape and probably considered a Masala wine in most circles, but de Bartoli ranks it as a table wine.

I can happily say this time around Terroirs stood up to the accolade and I shall frequent it again.

Fin!

But as a quickie recommendation try this Kiwi Pinot out -  Carrick Unravelled Pinot Noir 2008.

Carrick Unravelled Pinot Noir Central Otago 2008

Carrick is a well established winery in Central Otago on the Southern bit of NZ south island(maybe the world?).

So, why did I like this guy? Well for starters, the price!  At £12.50 this wine is a bargain from a region notorious for tres cher Pinot.  Great Western Wine in Bath are the importers and you can buy it online here.

As for the wine, it has loads of expressive mixed berry fruit of cranberry and lots of cherries with a vibrant earthy palate – high alc @ 14% but overall a good Pinot Noir that will defo stand up to a variety of dishes from Peking duck to chorizo sausages.

Oh, check this out, just got off the phone with Great Western Wine to double-check price and it is normally £12.50 but is now on offer for £10.95!  That is a ridiculously good price!! Honestly buy now.  Again here’s the link. I would but I’m just a lowly messenger

It was full of aromas and had lots and lots of berry fruit just jumping out of the glass.
And by no means sickly, with bubbles and balanced acidity it just cleansed the palate.

Available at various online retailers – check wine-searcher and Harvey-Nics for about £5.99 – that’s a half-bottle, by the way.

innocent bystander pink moscato 2009

Hmmmm…Besides steak I didn’t know Oz had anything ‘top end’,  and the restaurant was Roussillon so I at least knew one variable in the equation would work out!

Each dish matched individually to a McGuigan wine – and must say overall Roussillon’s food is superb.

Here are descriptions of my three favourite food and wine matchings (out of  the 5)

Perfect Partner

Milk Fed Lamb & Thyme – Shortlist Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Lamb and Bordeaux is a classic food and wine match and the Aussie substitute didn’t by any means back down from this challenge.
There was loads of blackcurrant with this Cabernet but also a mistletoe/mint leaf flavour that slotted in like a puzzle piece with the thyme rubbed lamb.

McGuigan Shortlist Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (thanks to Mathilde Cuisine for photo)

Match Made

Lobster & Purple Basil – Light Lobster Bisque infused with Purple Basil, Scallops & Confit Tomatoes Tortellini Mcguigan’s Earth’s Portrait Riesling 2004

Lobster & Purple Basil

Matching a wine here would be especially difficult as it would need to fit snugly between the buttery exploding richness of the lobster bisque and the delicate scallop flavour and texture.
Riesling is perfect for the job!  And Earth’s Portrait is an amazing example of what Australia can do with grape.  The distinct Riesling nose of kerosin/diesel backed by raw peach and stone fruits filled the acidity gaps in the dish. The wine is very fresh too and almost cleans the palate with every sip, that is despite it being 6 years old.
Riesling is a go to wine for many of London’s sommeliers, the Aus stuff  is especially good for matching with a variety of winged and finned foods.

STAR PAIRING

Wild Sea Bass & Razor Clams with Sechuan Pepper matched perfectly with the Bin 9000 Semillon 2003

Wild Sea Bass & Razor Clams (thanks to Mathilde Cuisine for photo)

Australian Semillon is some of the best in the world and, as you can see, this wine came littered with awards. This little guy threw out pear skin and apple pulp from the glass and was especially crisp.

Bin 9000 went perfect with the fish/clam duo – the sea aromas from the plate stacked up well with the chalky/mineral/saline sparkling water flavours in the wine. But even better, the wine did not shy away from the light touch of spiciness in the dish.
When things get spicy in food it’s usually time to call up some off-dry and even semi-sweet wine, but no, this dry bastard was having none of it!
Above all the combined freshness of the wine and food really stood out.

Bin 9000 Semillon 2003 with Mcguigan's white wine maker Peter Hall

Sadly, you won’t find any of these premium wines in the UK, however, I’ve heard reliable rumours that Tesco.com will be doing a VERY limited premium mix case soonish and it might have some of this stuff in it…..stay tuned I will let you know when it’s out.

Any chef who openly winds up their sommelier on Twitter deserves a mention on this blog! In fact any chef who twitters from the kitchen deserves recognition. Follow Alexis here @roussillon_sw1

Alexis Gauthier is the man behind Roussillon

Finally,  had to add a picture of this guy.  Neil McGuigan is chief winemaker and heir to McGuigan wines.  He is hilarious, and really knows how to have a good time. Despite being completely jet-lagged and on a very regimented wine tour, he was by far the most energetic in the room.
It’s when you meet personalities like Neil that you realise all is not pompous in the wine trade.

Neil McGuigan - keeping the wine trade in check

The Rhone Gang - during their more innocent times

Now, things have changed. Individually, the wines are still excellent and have been recognised by some very influential wine writers on both sides of the pond.  But even better, and what sets them apart from other winery alliances (the Douro Boys for instance) is the Rhône Gang are making wine under their own Rhône Gang label, and it’s good.  Recently, Jason Haynes of Flint Wines (the Gang’s UK affiliation), made me an offer I couldn’t refuse, to come and try the wines, reviews are below.

During their un-steady younger years. Sadly, Pencil-head Eddie (on the far left) died tragically in a hose-pipe incident

I’ve also heard on good authority, that  Wanted 2006 is one of the most popular wines at the newly opened Galvin La Chapelle and that no strong arm tactics were used to get it a listing.

With this combination of good wine, creative labels and quirky website, the Rhône Gang is destined to be a hit in the next decade.

The Gangsters are comprised of the wineries – Avitus, Ch de Montfaucon, Ch Pesquié and Ch de St Cosme

Hold Up 2007

The Rhône Gang £9.95  Pinot Noir/Grenache Flint Wines -  0207 582 2500 www.flintwines.com

WTF. A Pinot/Grenache (70/30) blend from the Rhône?!?! Something we might see from Australia but France…JAMAIS!!

This wine throws away all those ‘France can’t compete with new world innovation’ accusations out with the spit-bucket. Pinot is sourced from Burgundy and Grenache from S.Rhône, as most of you might know, two completely separate areas on the French wine map. Sure we see Shiraz-Cabernet blends from Australia and there are Pinot blends from Chile.  In France, it’s sacrilege to openly blend wine with that from other regions (I say openly, because lots of wineries do it illegaly).

Fragrant, savoury, cherry (Pinot) nose and juicy red berry (Grenache) on the palate, backed by soft tannins. A very nice, every day drinking wine.

Wanted 2006

The Rhône Gang £23.50 Grenache/Syrah.Mourvèdre/Carignan/Cinsault and Cournoise
Flint Wines – 0207 582 2500 www.flintwines.com

Heavy, rich nose that is full of fruit and gushing with blackberries. It tastes just as good as it smells and is actually kind of savoury with rich, concentrated berry flavours…all that and perfectly balanced.